Woolwich is an atypical and highly distinctive London district. Though now engulfed by suburbia, it is not historically speaking a suburb. A riverside settlement with Romano-British or earlier origins, it grew from the early 16th century to become a military-industrial satellite town that long maintained what Ian Nairn called ‘thumping self-centred vitality’.
There was massive investment in military establishments that were among the nation’s most important. This was reflected in substantial buildings, some of which still stand near the Thames. A few are in the former Royal Naval Dockyard that was founded in 1512, and many more are at the former Royal Arsenal, which emerged from origins in 1671 as an ordnance storage depot to become an immense arms factory.
Animation of the iron-frame roof of Gunnery House at the Royal Arsenal, Woolwich, formerly the Royal Carriage Department's East Turnery, built 1883-5
Pressure on space led the military to move away from the river, up the hill on to Woolwich Common to the south, where there are the imposing complexes of the Royal Artillery Barracks, begun in 1774 and with a façade of awesome extent, and the turreted Royal Military Academy of 1805. There is also the somewhat mysterious training and recreational landscape of Repository Woods, with John Nash’s eye-catching Rotunda, re-erected here in 1819.
Growing up between riverside and common, the town of Woolwich benefited from the military presence and industrial prosperity, but also struggled with poverty. Local pride and mutualist provision produced their own major monuments, ranging from one of the first polytechnics, founded in 1890, an impressive town hall of 1903–5 that is a set piece in a remarkable conglomeration of municipal buildings, on to vast co-operative department stores of 1903 (proclaiming ‘Each for All and All for Each’) and 1938, and two splendid 1930s cinemas.
Shops thrived along Powis Street, which is still a lively ‘high street’, and Woolwich has always been an important point for crossing the Thames – its Free Ferry has operated since 1889. Some 19th century houses remain, but most housing is of post-war date. From 1951 Woolwich was the only London borough given respnsibility for a omprehensive redevelopment area; therein and beyond lies an interesting range of approaches to public housing.
Military and other manufacturing departed in the 1960s and Woolwich became badly run down. It is now beginning to see vigorous regenerative investment. A gradual eastwards shift in London’s centre of gravity, with initiatives ranging from Thames Gateway to the 2012 Olympics, has brought much new development, with the promise of genuine improvements. Amid great change, the historic richness of Woolwich is not nearly as well known as it should be.
